Suchitoto, El Salvador, on the tony Suchitlán Lake, is getting ready for its 500th anniversary in 2028. A very important Spanish settlement and the first capital of the nation, they have a quiet confidence and pride. After all, “old family” and “old money” are terms of respect.
Outside of the town center, right on the lake, is a restored colonial mansion turned hotel that just celebrated its 200th anniversary: Casa 1800. I was happy to be hosted to experience it!

Walk clear through its entrance to outside, where the naturally stunning restaurant is. It has a feel of being invited to a posh private house party, but wild. The barely manicured large yard feels like a country club meets the Garden of Eden. You become torn between wanting all your friends there or reading a great book under a tree or the most romantic encounter of your life. The destination can meet all of those desires.
You can see Guatemalan mountains across the lake.

After a boat ride on the unmarred lake, a frozen horchata fit the bill. The savory ground morro seeds — a pumpkin variety unique to El Salvador — keeps the beverage from being cloying. It’s a rich, dairy-based drink.

This is what the non-frozen — “typicos” — style looks like:

To start with, I had the summer charcuterie plate: fried house-made tortilla, “soft hard cheese” (like feta), “classic cheese” (like cheddar), sausage, salami, pickled red onions, chimichurri of loroco, a flower bud favored in El Sa.”lvador described as “a vine native to Central America, especially popular in El Salvador and Guatemala, known for its unique, pungent, and slightly nutty flavor, often compared to a mix of broccoli, squash, and asparagus.” In the category of if you know, you know, it tastes exactly like wild fiddlehead fern. It’s mixed with garlic oil.

They offer fish of the day fished earlier from the lake in front. They’re also very proud of their meats, which they describe as being from “Papa’s grill.” The skirt steak is excellent.

The whole country is teeming with wild avocados and mangos. We should live in such a world! They’re so all over the place, the stray dogs known as “chuchos” live off them. They might just fall on you at any time!

