In Suchitoto, El Salvador — settled by the Spanish 500 years ago — what were prized Mayan handicrafts became mass-produced by force under colonialism until the Industrial Revolution.
Though there is pride in the ancient town with the beautiful and immaculately preserved Santa Lucia cathedral and cobblestone streets, there remains a tension in recounting their history.
In this town, women are reviving the indigenous arts in their ancestors’ ways.
Indigo is the blue-violet dye that was the original coloring for blue jeans. The plant is native to Central America, including El Salvador. The Mayans discovered the cooking and fermentation process that turned the intense coloring out of plants.
At Arte Anil — anil being the Spanish word for indigo, with Persian and Sanskrit roots — Irma Guadron produces fashions and teaches the dyeing tradition. Her talents have been recognized far and wide. Miss Universe contestants in El Salvador when the nation hosted in 2023 learned the craft from Guadron. And so did I! I was happy to be hosted to experience it.
After taking off your jewelry, you don an apron and gloves. My project of a long cotton scarf was done in that hippie-era tie dye style. Your art is packaged in a plastic bag for you to dry overnight. It’s a fun group activity!
On the way out of town, I stopped at a bodega-like store that was closed . . .but the proprietress popped out from back. She hand rolled cigars at a little table in front. This was the famous Doña Laura, Suchitoto’s last cigar maker. I was very thirsty in the heat and bought some fruit pop, as well as about a dozen cigars for $5 — later realizing that I don’t smoke cigars!
Luxe & Down-Home Cuisine/Culture/Travel/Style 