Luxe, approachable sushi in Cleveland: Dante Bocuzzi’s Goma

I’ve talked about Cleveland chef extraordinaire Dante Bocuzzi HERE and HERE. Though Clevelanders had known Bocuzzi for his Italian gourmet cuisine, he also had a background of being head chef in Milan, Italy for chef Nobu Matsuhisa at the famous and celebrity-beloved Nobu. He’s now opened a sushi restaurant in the 4th Street entertainment corridor-promenade to attract stars coming from Rocket Mortgage Field House and The House of Blues: Goma. I went there on an unseasonably warm winter night — but with congruency of nature — just after a winning Cavs game. The energy surrounding the place was jubilant! I sat at the sushi bar, to get a peak of the inside doings.

So, I navigated the menu to get as much bang out of my buck as possible, at a place where you can get gold-leafed sushi offerings.

They helpfully have a circle graph for their many sake offerings based on sweetness vs. dryness and body. I ordered a small, cool bottle of Summer Breeze: a drier drink, with lots of fruit peel flavors.

I could see that one of Goma’s specialties is incorporating luxurious ingredients to fuse into dishes, such as foie gras, caviar, truffle, lobster, gold leaf, wagyu beef. How to dip your toes into that without breaking the bank? I started with a bowl of Truffled Lobster Miso. It had a deep truffle fragrance. The soup was garnished with seaweed and scallion. The miso broth was rich — not the thin stuff of carry-out. It had nice hunks of fresh lobster.

Near where I live, I . . . don’t order red tuna. I’ve burned several times as to quality. Knowing that quality would be first class at Goma, I looked forward to a reunion! Not only does Goma have regular tuna and fatty tuna, but they also have the ultra-luxe super-fatty tuna. I went for a piece of Tuna Tataki: seared fatty tuna with osetra caviar. It was rich, but not pork belly rich. It has good, savory, clean tuna flavor. I will miss it: parting is such sweet sorrow. Osetra caviar is widely regarded as the best of the best. This is a way to enjoy it at a restaurant if you dont have an NBA contract. The caviar adds clean, salty richness.

At Goma, all the details are attended to: even the pickled ginger garnish is special. It has a very floral flavor.

Though they have plenty of foie gras offerings, uni is often called the “foie gras of the sea”, so I ordered that. It was a generous piece: big, rich, meaty flavor with a silky texture.

With so many possibilities, I asked my server for a suggestion as to a roll to order. The answer: Shiso Roll. It had white tuna, wasabi whitefish, daikon and white onion. I knew this is a flavor combo I like, so I went for it. It had a very intense unami aspect, like Epoisse cheese!

I really normally don’t order dessert at sushi restaurants, but knowing they’d be made in-house at Goma, I had a change of heart. Sesame ice cream sandwiches had a nutty, sesame flavor. like a nut brittle. They were sandwiched between almond cookies.

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