I could say that with jet lag or odd schedules, I like a midnight snack. The real story is, I love a midnight snack on any day ending in “y”. After my papusa-making dinner, I kinda wanted a little something. But I was in Ataco, El Salvador, a charming small town on the Ruta de las Flores with a soft rain coming down.
I was staying at the super luxurious boutique hotel, the Casa Degraciela. This place dates from 200 years ago, a Spanish colonial hacienda. 100 years ago, an eccentric married couple – was it a mariage blanc? — took over. They lived separately and would meet for like, an afternoon coffee or late night brandies while listening to music, each smoking Havana cigars. Whomever has decorated the place has the most charming taste in vintage costumes and ephemera decorating all of the rooms and common areas.
They say curiosity killed the cat, but it didn’t kill me! I padded across the courtyard and saw a bar: Decopalchi Gastropub. Because everything was quiet and well, empty, I assumed it was closed. Wouldn’t you? If there were no people in my little boutique hotel bar, I’d send the bartender home.


At any rate, I have to admit it was an unexpected luxury to have the place to myself, to munch and decompress.
The young bartender in formal wear didn’t speak English, but I was somehow able to ask a little something in Spanish and established that he was indeed, still open. They do have menus in English. The gastropub’s menu consisted of snacks and charcuterie. I decided I wanted something familiar with a twist. I zeroed in on smoked salmon and bacon crostini with a bed of sour cream, mustard, capers, pepper and lemon on slices of crostini. Their smoked salmon is not as salt-saturated as ours and it’s cut in thicker slices.

It being a little cold and rainy out, I wanted something something hot and soothing: tea! They had a more than decent selection, especially considering that hot tea drinking in bars and restaurants is probably on the decline. The choices included chamomile, peppermint, apple cinnamon and chai. It really hit the spot.


