Chic lunch in the shadow of history: Riga, Latvia’s Petergailis

Between Riga, Latvia’s most historic churches and among other famous sites is a 200 year old building that has been repurposed into a chic, yet cozy restaurant: Petergailis. I was happy to be hosted to experience it!

Along with church-like stained glass, the place is decorated with dozens of roosters — something about the crowing that used to wake parishioners for church.

I continued to be wowed that a non-formal restaurant had beautiful plating in all of its dishes.

Bread service had the Latvian’s favorite combo of light bread — in this case, popover-style rolls — and their dark, seeded rye. Three butters accompanied it: garlic and herb, hemp seed and sun-dried tomato. Hemp seed was pleasantly nutty. Actually, I liked all three!

Here is a water seen at most Latvian restaurants: very smooth and easy to drink. I wished I could have brought the beautiful bottles home.

As a starter, I chose a gourmet version of a popular dish in the area: Potato Rosti with smoked fish. Theirs was with seasoned rainbow trout, local goat cream cheese, tzatziki sauce and trout caviar. I have noticed that the cured fish in Latvia is less salty and smoky in the states and I like it better. The tzatziki sauce and trout caviar elevates the dish from a local favorite to something memorable.

By the time I ate lunch here, I had noticed duck on a few menus and decided to try it. Duck confit with honey roasted root vegetables, carrot puree,
kale cabbage, chanterelle and port wine sauce was served in just the right portion and arrangement that was perfect — not sloppy — for lunch. The leading into fall flavors were seasonal and delicious.

I couldn’t pass up on dessert: they had as an option three scoops of homemade ice cream in very local flavors: blackcurrant, redcurrant, sea buckthorn. I appreciated the tangy, juicy flavors in an ice cream.

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