Tucked away in Riga, Latvia’s Central Market is a local’s secret type of lunch spot: Siļķītes un Dillītes. In this tiny cafe, they’re doing sophisticated treatments of fish and have an interesting selection of locally made adult beverages. I was happy to be hosted to experience it!
Balsam — from Latvia’s plentiful forests — is made into an extremely popular aperitif/shot. Though it comes in several flavors, I tried the original. It had a viscous consistency, with pine and herbal notes. I learned the old-timers believe in it as a morning or other time health tonic.
Being very thirsty from many flights, I then pivoted to local soft drinks in exotic fruit flavors. I was too far gone to check the sugar/carb content. Red currant had a juicy, tangy berry flavor, while quince had refreshing lemon and green apple notes.
I was truly surprised that a casual cafe in a market selling raw and smoked fish, as well as many other foodstuffs and souvenirs, would take such care in presentation and plating. I later observed that nearly everywhere I ate in Latvia made dishes look like fine dining.
In the States, I’ve felt that a little smoked fish goes a long way and forget about herring in jars, though they were always a fave with my ancestors. In Latvia, they smoked and preserve their fish in a much more delicate way, so that there’s not too much salt and the natural flavor shines through.
They do herring in several flavors, including cranberry! Believe me, I was a little hesitant about trying it, but it’s really nice. It adds tangy notes to the fish.
I tried butterfish and wolf fish: they are solid, big and meaty flavored, served on a plank. Salmon was treated in the Latvian way, which is to say a style of gravlax without dill or pepper. It’s like the most perfect sashimi!
If you go to the loo around the corner, make sure you have change: it costs .50 Euro.
Luxe & Down-Home Cuisine/Culture/Travel/Style 