Carter Family Fold [classic article]

I like traveling to places off the beaten track, hidden away in guidebooks. One summer, I discovered a true gem. In the southwest corner of Hiltons, Virginia is the birthplace of modern country music – the Carter Family Fold. A.P. Carter started performing with his wife Sara and sister-in-law Maybelle in the 1920’s, out of the storefront that still stands as a museum. Maybelle was mom to the late June Carter Cash and mother-in-law to the late Johnny Cash.

Before she died, every Saturday at 7:30, A.P. and Sara’s daughter Janette presided over the live music shows. For $5 (or $1, if you are 6-11), you will be treated to family entertainment in the style of the Grand Ole Opry. There’s a little bit of comedy, some tall tale tellin’ and a whole lot of great acoustic bluegrass. The performances are in a large shed that seats a 1,000 and fills up quickly with folks from all over the Blue Ridge Mountains. Some people come every week and have the privilege of leaving their seat cushions.

They have groups come from all over to participate. I was glad to hear this bit of true Americana live. When I first visited, I was told that just two weeks before, Johnny Cash had made a surprise visit, doing what would be his last performance. Apparently, Johnny made arrangements to buy the surrounding property and his late mother-in-law’s home, so that it would stay in the family without undue financial burden. I was touched to hear these intimate details of “The Man in Black”.

Just in front of the performers, people get up and dance. The locals do a terrific job of clogging, Appalachian step dancing and waltzing. I felt dreamlike when I was waltzing to the Tennessee Waltz. It was refreshing to see the different generations, from kids with hemp bracelets to men straight out of the old Bartle and James ads, having a wholesome fun time. They mean business when it comes to the family atmosphere; alcohol is strictly forbidden. There are still delicious refreshments, though. Just a few dollars netted me some homemade lemonade, baked beans and corn bread! They also have popcorn and Carter Family recordings for sale.

To end the show, they had everyone get out of their chairs and gather near the stage for a group sing along of “Will the Circle Be Unbroken”.

If you come between 6 and show time, you can visit the Carter Family museum. They display instruments, show clothes, awards and personal mementos. If you get to the show late, like I did, you can still peep in the windows afterwards — they keep the lights on.

For more info, check out www.carterfamilyfold.org