Unless you’re standing by a creek with a baited hook, you’re not going to get any fresher seafood than Restaurant Gabriel in Gothenburg (“Goteborg” in local parlance), Sweden. It’s located in the city’s fish market that kind of resembles a cathedral, with the restaurant looking down on the stalls/pews. Think of it as fish meeting a higher power! I’m very glad that I had the opportunity to be hosted to experience it.
The intimate-sized operation — for lunch only — is much more elegant that your typical restaurant stand in a market, with wine and lovely presentation of food. And yet, it’s fiercely popular with a whole range of clientele, from the working class to professionals. Sitting at the bar might be a good option. The restaurant is owned by father and son chefs, Gunnar and Johan Malm. Johan has won 1st and 2’d place in the World Oyster Shucking Championships, so of course, I tried some raw oysters. That day, Swedish oysters were not available — they only serve the best of the best — so Johan shucked some oysters from France, garnishing them with lemon, fresh dill and seaweed. French oysters are quite meaty in flavor, much more protein-forward than East Coast oysters.
My main dish was the recommended fish of the day, “Plaice”. It was served with lingonberries, local in-season chanterelles, sauteed leeks and carrots, a frond of fresh dill, along with piped cheesey chive potatoes and a cream foam. This was a quite delectable dish! I would describe plaice as a very mild, tender, creamy white fish: cod lovers will definitely go for it. The fall accompaniments added some earthiness to it and the flavors are Swedish, to be sure.
With my fish, I drank a local mineral water, Ramlosa, as well as a delicate local pear cider.
Luxe & Down-Home Cuisine/Culture/Travel/Style 