Smithsonian Magazine said that Sassi di Matera was “The shame of Italy.” That’s how this town at the instep of Italy’s boot was regarded in the 1950’s. It seems almost improbably that people lived in its limestone carved crevices and caves, but they did — for at least 10,000 years. In the mid 1950’s, the national government cleared out people living in Matera to a more modern part of town. In the late 1970;s, bohemian types squatted in the old residences and in the 1980’s, some re-investment in the area began. It’s slow going, but visionaries are opening businesses to cater to extraordinary residents and tourists.
Enter Baccanti, an exciting and elegant restaurant right in the stones. I was happy to be hosted to experience it! I was reading some thoughts of food writer David Rosengarten recently. He described how the best restaurants should pique your senses before your even walk through the door. Baccanti stuns you before you enter. You have to descend the ancient stones and the place is lit up like a movie set. They love when private parties take over the courtyard! Inside is well lit, but golden in tone: you can see everything, but in a flattering light.
The restaurant’s cuisine focuses on the traditional foods and produce of the area. As I was a participant in the Southern Italy Agri-Food Tourism Conference (SIAFT), it was a good match. The region has piquant olive oils and wild herbs. I was struck how their recipes (and those in other restaurants in the area) were decidedly unsalty and left in their natural state. Is it because they were poor and salt — “salary” — was dear? I’m in the process of researching that! I do know that they didn’t age cheeses, etc. in their caves, instead preferring fresh ricottas and burratas. Well, they weren’t living by themselves in the caves: many shared with the beloved family donkey!
This is what was for dinner:
- Smoked Podalico beef served with walnuts, wild leaf salad, homemade mini artichokes in olive oil
- Small bites of fried cod fish on a cream of Murgia’s black chick peas
- Capuntini with wild chicory leaves and “cruschi” on mashed fava beans (capuntini are homemade pastas typical of the region, “cruschi” are sundried peppers)
- Veal cheek with potatoes, rosemary and onion with Aglianico (a local huge black grape)
- Cheesecake cloud with peach coulis
As you’ll see in the slideshow, the humble ingredients are treated with care, but still left fresh. The restaurant has a beautiful cheese cooler, exquisite wines and little pantry staples for sale.
Luxe & Down-Home Cuisine/Culture/Travel/Style 