Eat like a local at Trier, Germany’s Zum Christophel [classic article]

Trier, Germany’s status as its oldest city is very clear at the Porta Nigra — the stone black gate that the Romans built during the time of Caesar Augustus. It’s the largest, most intact Roman gate in the world. Because it’s a UNESCO heritage site, it’s very popular and well-photographed. For that reason alone, you can’t possibly get lost finding Zum Christophel in the Schroeder Hotel — even if you’re jet-lagged — it’s right next door! It’s the hotel with sculptures adorning the outside.

The restaurant specializes in local favorite recipes with a modern twist. I was very happy to be hosted to experience it.

 

I went to the restaurant on a rainy day and everyone was pretty casually dressed. The windows look right onto the gate and world pop music plays in the background, including American.

A little Cafe’ de Paris butter spread was sent out with the bread course. I’ve made it at home and there are like a million components in it! It includes wine, herbs, lemon peel and other aromatics. If you do make it at home, you’ll want to make a huge batch and stick single portions in the freezer . . . it’s that much of a pain to make!

I was there during the white asparagus season, so I went all out: I started with soup. Theirs is served with white foam on top, fried croutons and hard cooked egg in a fine dice. It had a bisque texture/thickness and was pleasantly salted.

To go with the asparagus, I had them pick out a local wine. Asparagus is considered the toughest wine pairing of all! They picked out a Riesling wine from the Mosel River region, which was dry and very tangy: a nicely contrasting flavor.